Travels with Wildcat

Log : April 10, 2006

You wouldn't feel like you were in the Bahamas if you didn't encounter that infernal squally weather. We were able to quickly make it to the Exumas. The weather was so mild and the sailing was great, even if we had to tack for two of our runs. We got down to Black Point, on Great Guana Cay in the Exumas and had a wonderful anchorage. The winds were 10 to occasionally 20 SE and the anchorage was fine for that with just a moderate surge. We happened to notice a boat who had been docked near us in Salt Pond Marina up in Hampton, VA. We got in touch with them to say hi and they told us about a brand new laundromat in town. In the Bahamas, the word "laundromat" is one that perks up your ears. In addition, they used the words "brand new", and we just had to try it out. The great thing about the laundromat is that you meet so many people there, both native and boating. In the course of our conversations, we found that a buffet bar-b-que was happening that night at a local restaurant called Lorraine's. We went and had a wonderful time. Two boaters had brought their guitars and sang their own tunes and some by Lorraine and her mother. They even gave away door prizes at the end of the evening and I won a little purse made out of straw.

The next day was the "weather dilemma" day. There was bad weather heading to us from the States. The same weather that did so much damage in Georgia. As is always the case, when bad weather is approaching VHF channel 16 is alive with conversations about where to go to anchor in relative safety. We were one of the few boats heading south. We had been to a place called Cave Cay 13 years ago and remembered it as a wonderfully protected spot. No one knew anything about it other than there was now a marina there. So we set off tacking in winds 15-20 SE to Cave Cay. When we got there we anchored outside and Chris dinghied in to check it out. The marina was empty and there was a dredge there but no one was about. We headed Wildcat inside and saw a man walking down to the dock who looked like he wanted to talk to us. We asked if we could anchor but he said no. However we could dock at $2.00 a foot. That's on the steep side for us but we decided to stay, not liking the look of the black clouds headed our way. Despite the price, we were glad we went in. The man owns the entire island. He bought it from the Bahama government and has dredged the basin and installed a marina. He has showers and laundry and hopes to put in a restaurant, sundry store, and cottages for rent. He also has an airstrip for very small planes. We walked around the island and talked with him. He is an ex-oil Texan and this is his new baby. Under each of the cottages he has 50 batteries that are connected to his solar panels on top of each roof. He has tons of earth moving equipment on the island and has installed some really decent floating docks. He charges $.50 for each gallon of water and we didn't ask the price of fuel, but he has it. It is quite an ambitious dream this man has and he's put a lot of money into it so far. He employs 15 Bahamians and everyone was working even on a Sunday. Sure enough, the squalls came through and we were perfectly protected.

The next day with more squalls in the forecast, we headed to Rudder Cut Cay. We were also here 13 years ago and remember how the junk bond king, Michael Milken, had owned the island but he was in jail then and the place was deserted. Not only deserted, but anything of any value had been taken. This island also has an airstrip and a road with lights from the house to the airstrip (about 1 mile). There are no other boats in here but it is not bad for the weather. There is a junkpile of metal appliances and various other things on the beach guarded by 4 fairly large dogs. We are hoping some one will show up to give them food and water, otherwise we'll go in ourselves and do it. We wouldn't mind company but no one seems to come here anymore. I guess there's been chains strung across the entrance in times past, so not many people even try to come here. One thing you can say about the Bahamas is that they are constantly in a state of flux.

So we're heading eventually to Georgetown, Exuma. The weather will be rough for the next few days so we'll just hang out here and do a little fishing. Let's hope we find some grouper! Keep in touch. Fair winds and following seas. Pam and Chris aboard Wildcat

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